Edward Enninful on Modern Britain: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 transformed the trajectory of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the city's electric 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from mannequin to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of i-D magazine.

"That era was the peak of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is in good company. Lately, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. Yet in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the resurgence of populist movements, the backlash against social awareness, and the reinforcement of traditional beauty standards. Replacing the optimism of the late 90s, now a more divisive political figure appears as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has become contentious again.

According to Enninful, the response has always been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the core philosophy behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of influential figures from literature.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he asserts, referring to those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a lenient country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this period will fade."

Hope in the Next Generation

He draws solace in the next generation: "They’re much more aware than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."

His formative years would forge a pioneering career built on boldness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Critically, sales increased.

"Ignoring large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re excluding people – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since moving on from his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".

"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … all that gave me a dual identity between worlds."

In contrast to the caricature of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and projects peace. His journey has involved hardship, including openly discussed periods of mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I endured such a dark place for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This refusal to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the realm that built his career. He is now putting together a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who lacked a spotlight at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they weren't of the expected background," he states.

This project itself uses a unique approach, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "The question is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a broader vision."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful stands as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of defying expectations.

What would the younger Edward make of the his current self? He smiles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I didn't think institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He reflects. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have doubted me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve set my intention to do something."